Monday, August 31, 2015

Which pliers should I use for Chain Maille jewelry?

Bail making pliers

Bail making pliers
Bail Making Pliers
Making wire coils of small or big inner diameters for jump rings for Chain Maille jewelry are very easy to form by wrapping wire around the jaws. These pliers are composed of two long cylindrical jaws with different diameters on each jaw of the pliers which allow you to form Jump Rings coils of 25 mm to 38 mm length in multiple sizes.

These bail making pliers has
jaws sizes:
  •  1.50 mm & 2.50 mm

  •  4.00 mm & 6.00 mm 
  • 7.00 mm & 9.00 mm

Opening and closing jump rings 

 Is one of the most basic and common techniques used in Chain Maille making.
  • Flat nose pliers are used for thicker wire ( e.g. gauge 16 - 1. 32 mm, or gauge 14 -  1. 63 mm).
  • Chain nose pliers are used for thinner wire (e.g. gauge 21 - 0.71 mm, or gauge 22 - 0.64 mm).
For better leverage to open or close jump rings it is better to use two pairs of pliers of the same type, or you can combine them, using the Flat nose pliers in your left hand and the Chain nose pliers in your right hand.

**Note: always pull the rings towards your body to open them, never pull them apart from side to side because they will get out of round shape, and to close them in the opposite way you will hear a clicking sound when you reach the ring ends.

Opening jump rings
Opening Jump Rings


 


Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Unveiling Endless Uses of Flat Nose Pliers in Jewelry Making

Endless Uses of Flat Nose Pliers in Jewelry Making

While Flat Duck Billed nose is the opposite and the exception to tapered jaws, Flat nose pliers, Snipe nose pliers, Needle nose pliers, Bent nose pliers and Chain nose pliers all taper towards a flat end. We can resume saying that the uses of Flat nose pliers in jewelry making is endless.

Flat Nose Pliers Jaws Types:

Parallel Flat nose pliers Serrated jaws
Parallel Flat Nose Pliers Serrated Jaws
  • Smooth surface in the inner jaws
  • Serrated surface in the inner jaws
  • Brass Lined inserts in the inner jaws
  • Nylon Tips inserts in the inner jaws

Flat Nose Pliers Uses:

Spiral post earrings made with a Flat nose pliers
Spiral Post Earrings
  • Holding or Filing wire and sheet metal
  • Opening and Closing Jump Rings for Chain Maille making.
  •  Straightening wire with Parallel Flat nose pliers with Nylon jaws to prevent dents or marring.
  •  Twisting wire with Parallel Flat nose pliers Serrated jaws with a "V" slot for better grip
  •  Bending angles or Flattening crimps.
  •  Flattening wide bands for Rings and for Closing gaps on joints for Soldering operations often Parallel Action Flat nose pliers are used because the pressure is even along the jaws.
  • For Gripping or forming spirals shapes on round soft wire and avoid denting or flattening the wire it is better to use Flat nose pliers with Nylon jaws.
  •  Holding Round Beads or Calottes also known as Clamshell Crimps, Bead Tips or Necklace Ends; these findings are used to get a perfect nice looking finish to your jewelry creations.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

How to set Stones with Gem Setting Pliers



With these Gem setting pliers setting stones are easier that you think. The concept is very simple; the lower jaws of these pliers are stationary while the pliers handle allows the upper jaws to move up and down, but only up to the distance you already set with the wheel, avoiding  fracturing the stone with excessive pressure.
Gem Setting Pliers
Gem Setting Pliers
This particular model features brass lined jaws which means no marring or scratching your prongs while you are setting the stone in your jewelry.
Gem Setting Pliers with Brass Lined Jaws
Gem Setting Pliers with Brass Lined Jaws

Thursday, February 19, 2015

How to make holes on Metals for Jewelry Making

To make holes on metals for Cold Connections, Rivets, Links or for Piercing or Sawing Techniques


The techniques which are used to make holes in Jewelry Making are Drilling or by Punch with Cutting Dies.


There are diverse types of tools to use according to the size of the hole that you want to make in your sheet metal piece.

If you need holes with a diameter less than 1.5mm or large sizes you have to use a variety of tools as follows:

A metal ruler or a plastic one. I found one ruler in particular in a fellow blog about scrapping that caught my eye because you can mark precise and even equidistant holes around a disc shape. This is a time saving tool for jewelry making that will help with your designs.

Piercing Ruler
Piercing Ruler
Forca Jewelers Bench Block and Chasing Hammers Set
Bench Block and Chasing Hammers
You need a Scriber to scratch the surface of the metal or a Sharpy marker pen with a fine point to mark the position where we want the hole over the sheet metal.

A Chasing hammer to be able to strike over
the marking punch with the hammer to make a small dent on the sheet metal so the HSS Drill bits don't slip over the metal stock surface.

A Bench block or an anvil as a hard surface to receive the strike of the punch over the metal without deforming the back of the sheet metal surface.

Or an Automatic Marking Metal Punch. These ones come with a spring mechanism which regulates the strike on the punch to make light or hard indentations on the metal surface.

HSS (Stands for High Speed Steel) Twisted Drill Bits and a wax lubricant to smooth and cool the drill bits during the drilling process.

Then we could use a Flex Shaft Rotating Tool or a Jewelers Manual Drill Eggbeater style to attach the drill bit whichever size of choice and start drilling the piece of sheet metal over a wood surface.
Jewelers Hand Drill Eggbeater Style
Jewelers Hand Drill Eggbeater Style
HSS Twisted Drill Bits
HSS Drill Bits 1.0mm ~ 2mm Set
Parallel Action Metal Hole Punch Pliers
Parallel Punch Metal Hole Pliers

If you need standard 1.5mm holes that fit almost all wire sizes, another easy way to do it is using Parallel Metal Hole Punch Pliers.These parallel pliers cut clean holes over the sheet metal up to gauge 20 or 0.80mm thickness and have replaceable cutting pins which last a long time and are quite easy to change.


To make holes of 3mm to 16mm of diameter you can use a Jewelers Disc Cutter Punch Set. This tool is very practical since is equipped with 14 different punch sizes to allow you to cut precise holes and disc metal blanks to use for jewelry making, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants or chains.
Jewelry Hardened Carbon Steel Disc Cutter Metal Set of 14 Pieces 3mm - 16mm.

Jewelry Hardened Carbon Steel Disc Cutter Metal Set of 14 Pieces 3mm - 16mm.


Saturday, January 3, 2015

Which Pliers Should I use to make Perfect Jump Rings?

Jump Rings Making Pliers
Jewelry Jump Rings Making Pliers and Wire Cutters
Which pliers you should use to make consistent Jump Rings and diverse ways how to cut them and which pliers to use for opening and closing jump rings.

Jump Rings:

What are Jump Rings? Before I wrote this article I was curious to check the meaning of Jump Rings and this is what I found:

noun
plural noun: jump rings
a wire ring made by bringing the two ends together without soldering or welding

Wikipedia said: 
Jump rings are (usually metal) rings used to make chains, jewelry and chain maille.They are made by wrapping wire round a mandrel to make a coil and then cutting the coil with a jeweler saw or wire cutters to make individual rings. The rings can be assembled one by one into chains, earrings, objects such as bowls or ornaments, and chain mail clothing.

The making of items from jump rings is called chain maille ("maille" is French for "mesh").
probably this name was used since the Middle Ages in Europe when the Cavaliers wore a shirt of made of rings forming a mesh "maille"for Sporting ceremonial lancing matches.

My final conclusion is to think that this particular name "Jump Rings" comes from the fact that when you cut a coil of wire at the center with a jeweler saw or a a pair of wire cutters almost most of the time the rings separated from the coil jump away in different directions.

Jump rings can be described by the following qualities :

  • Gauge
The thickness of the wire the ring is made from. Usually measured according to American Wire Gauge standards or in millimeters, but SWG (Standard Wire Gauge) may be used.
  • Inner diameter
Approximately the same as the outer diameter of the mandrel used to create the rings, but the exact inner diameter will depend on the degree to which the wire springs as it comes off the mandrel.
  • Kerf width
The gap between the ends of the jump ring created by the cutting process
  • Cut type
Saw cut or pinched. The former produces a clean uniform cut whereas the latter is pinched and looks less attractive.
  • Outer diameter
The outer diameter of the ring, this is the same as (twice the gauge + the inner diameter).  i.e  with a Bail Making Pliers mandrel jaws of 6mm of diameter your final diameter ring if you use a 18 gauge ~ 1.02mm wire is 6mm + 1.02mm x 2 = 8.04mm if you multiple this number by "Pi" ~ 3.1416 you will get the length of wire you will need to cut to make one jump rings in a coil = 25.24mm per ring x 10 rings = 252.4mm ~ 10"
  • Color
For example, anodized aluminum rings come in many colors.
  • Material
The common materials are Gold (or plated gold), Silver (or plated silver), Aluminum, Brass, Stainless Steel, Copper, Niobium, and Titanium.

 Jewelry Round Nose Pliers
Jewelry Round Nose Pliers
To make Jump Rings for Jewelry Making you need a Jewelry Round Nose Pliers. With this tool you are able to form and bend tight curves loops for jump rings, chain making and filigree work from 5mm ~ 1.5mm at the tips of the pliers.But, to make coils of wire in different diameter sizes, we have to use other types of pliers to make our work easier and more efficient.
There are several Multi size looping pliers models which are used in jewelry making that are very helpful to make jump rings.

Master Coiling Pliers

Jewelry Master Coiling Pliers and Parallel Snipe Nose Pliers
Jewelry Master Coiling Pliers
I personally like to work with these unique pliers to make uniformly well shaped jump rings, clasps, post earrings backs and other findings easily and efficiently because their flat jaw allows to tighten the wire precisely around the four stepped cylindrical barrels of different sizes from 1.5mm to 5.5mm diameter without kinking or marring your wire. These pliers are all you need to create consistent and perfect small coils every time. I use Parallel Snipe Chain Nose Locking Pliers and the Parallel Flat Nose Locking Pliers for wider coils to hold them because these pliers have a locking knob which keep wire coils fixed in place and safe to cut them with a Jeweler's Saw.


Jewelry Multi Size Wire Looping Pliers
Jewelry Multi Size Wire Looping Pliers
Multi Size Wire Looping Pliers

With these pliers you can make multiple wire coils in six different sizes 2.0mm, 4.0mm, 7.0mm & 3.0mm, 5.0mm, 9.0mm. to make Ear Wires, Jump Rings in multiple sizes, S Hook Clasps, Bails for Pendants Filigree work, Custom figure eight links, S hook clasps, bails for pendants that are a difficult fit. Using these pliers is easy and you can make of any kind of wire shape by wrapping and forming your connections around the jaws.


Bail Making Pliers
With these Bail Making Pliers you can create bails and wire twists by wrapping wire around the jaws that are composed of two long cylindrical jaws with different diameter in each jaw of the pliers which allow you to form Jump Rings in multiple sizes, French Ear Wire, S Hook Clasps, Custom figures, Eight links, Bails for Pendant with larger coils to get more jump rings for the production of chains.

These pliers are made with different diameter jaws sizes of 1.5mm & 2.5mm , 4.0 mm & 6.00mm and 7.0mm & 9.0mm.

Jewelry Multi Size Wire Looping Pliers and Bail Making Pliers
Jewelry Multi Size Wire Looping Pliers and Bail Making Pliers
I made this Jewelry Set using these Bail Making pliers to make the connections for this Bracelet and Earrings with Sterling Silver wire gauge 16 ~ 1.32mm

Jewelry Bracelet and Earrings Set Sterling Silver

Opening and Closing Jump Rings

After the coil of wire has been cut with wire cutters or with a jeweler's saw, the kerf of the rings become wide open and a little out of shape, and we need to manipulate them with a pair of pliers by the extremes of the wire ends which form the rings to reshape them to become circular again.

To open and closing jump rings in Jewelry Making the most used pliers are Flat Nose Pliers, Chain Nose Pliers or Chain maille making pliers and Bent Nose Pliers to manipulate the rings until both wire ends become tight close to form a circular shape.

Jewelry Jump Rings Closing Pliers
Jewelry Jump Rings Closing Pliers
There are other specialized Jewelry Pliers to close Jump Rings easily without marring or scratching your wire like the picture on the left.

I hope that this little guide gives you a more clear scope of which pliers to use to make consistent and perfect Jump Rings every time for your future creations in Jewelry making.















Sunday, November 30, 2014

Jewelry Making Pliers Types and Use

http://www.justpliers.com/53-magical-beads-forming-crimping-pliers
Magical Forming Beads Forming Crimping Pliers


 Jewelry Making Pliers Types and Uses

Jewelry Pliers come in a variety of different shapes and sizes in according to the purposes that is needed . Each type of pliers has been designed to accomplish a different and specific function in jewelry-making to work on metals; and other pliers are specifically for handmade beading jewelry

There are also many methods of manufacturing pliers, including different forms, constructions, metal compositions and ways to join them.

The following is a check list of things to consider to help you decide how to invest your money and get the best jewelry pliers, engineered for precision which offer you the ultimate experience in comfort. Easy to control and safe to use. The kind of quality tools that you are looking for Incrementing your productivity as well as the quality of your finished jewelry  with Proven results you will love and as a Plus an Unsurpassed Guarantee to Save you Money.!

All Jewelry Pliers are not the same!! It is very important when purchasing your pliers that you understand exactly what you are buying.
http://www.justpliers.com/23-flat-nose-pliers
The pliers on the top are Lap Joint and on the bottom Box Joint
http://www.justpliers.com/20-round-nose-pliers
The pliers on the top are Box Joint and on the bottom Lap Joint
Quality: The first and most important thing to consider is quality. The quality and type of construction of the pliers will greatly affect the usage and longevity of them. Let’s go over the basic differences since THERE ARE PLIERS…AND THERE ARE PLIERS!
There are two types of construction – Cast and Drop Forged.
What is the difference? Cast means that a mold is used and the molten steel is poured into this mold.
Since this type of tool is not tempered or work hardened, not only does it tend to be brittle, but with hard usage they tend to bend and break. (This can especially be seen in the tips of the jaws of the Round Nose pliers when you make loops.)
This will not happen with a Drop forged constructed pliers. Why? Because drop forged pliers are not only compressed – and under great pressure, but also the metal is both tempered and hardened – to give you the strength, durability and longevity you need.

There are also different types of steel used for making pliers; stainless steel, hardened tool steel, and high carbon with chrome and vanadium alloy steel. Stainless steel is the cheapest and is a good basic metal that requires little maintenance and is rust resistant, and will do for occasional usage. However, if you plan to use them a lot or for a long period of time, hardened tool steel is much better. It is far more durable, lasts longer, and requires very little maintenance even under very heavy usage. The high carbon chrome and vanadium alloy steel could be considered for very heavy usage since it is very durable.

Note: Tools made of Stainless Steel as the word suggests have NO STAINS or RUST in the STEEL but as illustrated in the pictures above some tools advertised as "Stainless Steel" really are not, but are made of a lower quality of Steel - but not STAINLESS.!

Now let us go over the other important part of pliers construction – the joints. There are two types of construction – lap joint and box joint.

Lap joint is not as reliable as the box joint but and the more common of the two. In this type of joint, the two sides overlap each other and are joined in the center where they cross by a rivet. This rivet can sometimes be seen if you look at the pliers and see a round circle in the steel. The problem with this lap joint is that over time and usage this rivet loosens and the faces and edges can move around slightly .  This looseness and will get worse with time and more usage. This will make the pliers loose and unreliable, and not give you your desired result except if they are riveted and hardened during the forging manufacture which almost use as standard in quality jewelry pliers for wrapping wire, bail making pliers, wrap and tap pliers, etc.

The box joint construction, on the other hand, though more expensive and more difficult to make, is far superior. In the box joint construction one side of the tool passes through the other, not over or under and this means that there are 4 faces in contact with each other not 2 as in the lap joint construction. The rivet is fitted when the pliers are forged , hidden and there Is far less, if any at all, looseness or movement, making them more accurate. Also the alignment and precision is maintained for the life of the tool. This results in pliers that will give you exceptional performance and last much longer.

 
As we see in the picture above Pliers constructed used the Lap joint and Box Joint construction.

The fit and finish of the pliers is also important since it affects not only the quality and overall appearance of the plies, but the end result of the quality and appearance of your work. The pliers should have a smooth finish and be highly polished.

Why?
If there are minor defect in the fit or finish of the working areas of the jaws it could leave visible marks on your work which you would have to polish out yourself.

• Now let’s talk about the handles.
Long or short? First they have to be comfortable for the size of your hand.  A longer handle will provide you with greater leverage. This means you can grip things with less effort and they are more comfortable. Pliers which have cushioned or ergonomics anti-slip grips are more comfortable to fit and usage.

The springs
also affect the strength and ease of use of the pliers. Jewelry pliers which have special double leaf springs are more easy to use and avoid hand fatigue.

We have gone over what you need to know about the construction of pliers and the importance of quality construction. They are an investment which should last and give you excellent performance.

Now let’s go over exactly what type of pliers you should use. There are so many types of pliers and cutters. There are many types of pliers and we will talk about some of the most commonly used ones based on form and function. The form is what defines the shape of the jaws. For example the three most common are flat nose, chain nose and round nose.  

Flat Nose Pliers have two wide flat surfaced jaws. They are used to hold and manipulate wire or sheet, flattening metal and form, as well as making angled bends and holding small beads , holding bezel wire during filing, and opening and closing jump rings.

Round Nose Pliers have two long round tapering conical jaws from pivot to tip. They are used to form loops and bend tight curves loops and coils. They bend wire for jump rings, chain making, filigree work, and wire wrapping. Since both jaws have a round cross-section tapering to a fine point at the tips, they are ideal for getting into tight areas. 

http://www.justpliers.com/25-chain-nose-pliers
Jewelry Chain Nose Pliers
Chain Nose Pliers are flat where the jaws meet and taper done from the pivot to the tip. These rounded pointed ends are ideal for chain making, chain maille techniques and opening or closing jump rings, grabbing small items, flattening or closing crimps and bending wire and holding small beads. 
http://www.justpliers.com/26-bent-nose-pliers
Jewelry Bent Nose Pliers

Bent Nose Pliers are especially useful for tucking in wire ends in beads. The cross section and taper is the same as chain nose pliers, but the jaws bend to one side. These bent jaws provide better access to tight areas.   

http://www.justpliers.com/27-flat-and-half-round-nose-pliers
Jewelry Flat and Half Round Nose Pliers
Flat and Half Round Nose Pliers are suitable for bending ring shank stock and for making large diameter loops since the half round jaw has a gentle curve. The upper jaw is rectangular and therefore not likely to dent the material you are bending.

Round and Flat Nose Pliers have a lower jaw like a round nose pliers and an upper jaw like a flat nosed pliers. They are forming pliers and used for making small loops and jump rings and for bending tight curves in sheet stock

Concave and Convex Nose Pliers These type of forming pliers feature a Concave or hollowed inward jaw and an opposite jaw with a Convex or Rounded shape whose curves match with precise accuracy for bending gentle curves in wire and sheet.

Concave and Round Nose Pliers are similar to the concave and convex pliers but since the tapered lower jaw provides a range of diameters for wrapping sheet and wire, they are even more useful for making smaller diameter jump rings and loops.
Needle Nose or Bead Knotting Pliers have a precise finely tapered nose point to use for bead knotting, weaving, or holding small particles, threads, wires etc.
http://www.justpliers.com/36-round-and-flat-nose-pliers
Jewelry Round and Flat Nose Pliers

Jewellery Ring and Loop closing Pliers have jaws that are hollowed out with a smooth finish and are specifically designed to close rings, loops, jump rings, bows, bracelet links, charm links etc. without marring or twisting your wire.

Crimping Pliers are used for holding flat surfaces whilst working with the wire and are good for use with jump rings and for flattening out wires. 

Cutters are pliers specifically designed to cut wire or sheet metal whereas other pliers are designed to hold and form metal. For pliers the type is defined by the nose shape but for cutters it is the jaw length.

Cutters with tungsten carbide bevel cutters which can be used for both soft and hard wire. They may require more cutting force , leave a little pinch (or V shape), and are very durable.  
http://www.justpliers.com/34-concave-and-convex-nose-pliers
Jewelry Concave and Convex Nose Pliers
http://www.justpliers.com/28-needle-nose-beads-knotting-pliers
Needle Nose Beads Knotting Pliers
http://www.justpliers.com/35-concave-and-round-nose-pliers
Jewelry Concave and Round Nose Pliers 


http://www.justpliers.com/43-loop-closing-pliers
Jewelry Loop Closing Pliers








Diagonal Cutters are used for cutting wire or small pieces of metal sheet or stock. The tapered ends can get into very tight areas. These are the most commonly used cutters.

Top End Cutters
are better suited to cut protruding wire ends than diagonal cutters since their cutting edges are set at right angles, providing easier access to tight areas.

Oblique End Cutters
are similar in design to end cutters but their jaws are slightly offset to one side, providing increased clearance.

Sprue cutters
are specifically designed for cutting casting sprues and are also useful for cutting hard materials and thick stock. The compound joint and spring action gives maximum leverage with minimum effort.

Cutters
are given a rating called their “maximum cutting capacity” which is measured from the pivot point to the center of the cutting edge.

The cutting capacity is measured in wire gauge thickness. The “Brown and Sharpe” gauge measures the standard thickness of wire which ranges from 0 gauge, 0.325” ~ 8.26mm.(very thick) to 34 gauge, .0063” ~ .1600mm. (very thin).



Parallel Pliers have compound-action handles coupled to the jaws with a rectangular cross section for precise alignment that remains parallel along the entire length of the jaws throughout their range of movement , a difference that from other pliers,  which open in a "V" shape, that only apply pressure over the tips of the pliers.  There are a quite variety of Parallel action pliers: Flat nose pliers are equipped with smooth or serrated surface, Chain or Snipe nose pliers also with locking system to hold, saw and file tiny pieces of metal, Round nose as well as Round and Flat nose pliers, Flat and Half Round nose pliers , Concave and Convex nose pliers or Parallel action pliers with Brass or Nylon jaws to avoid marring or scratching your metal.

Flat Nose Pliers, Round Nose Pliers, and Round and Flat Nose pliers also come with nylon jaws to prevent any marring to the wire or sheet metals.



http://www.justpliers.com/70-diagonal-side-wire-cutters
Diagonal Side Wire Cutter Tungsten Carbide
http://www.justpliers.com/home/65-forca-rtgs-384-jewelry-pliers-nylon-jaws-kit--4001632653845.html
Jewelry Pliers Nylon Jaws Kit

We show here some of the features of these Jewelry Parallel Action Flat Nose Pliers, you can saw, pierce and file any tiny pieces of metal without any hassle....These Parallel Locking Pliers are a Must Tool.! for any beginner or professional jeweler. This tool make your work more easy and safe to fulfill your creativity.

Pierce, Saw or File with these Amazing
Parallel Pliers



Parallel Flat Nose Locking Pliers